


Although many watch brands have played a role in the history of aviation, only one was present with the Wright brothers on the beach of Kitty Hawk, North Carolina on the morning of Thursday December 19, 1903, as they made the
first flight in the history of aviation. This was a Vacheron & Constantin wristwatch. Initially made in a series of five, one example is now exhibited in the Vacheron & Constantin museum in Geneva. It has a steel case, enamel dial, red-painted hands, and a long leather strap allowing it to be worn either on the thigh or over a leather jacket. This wristwatch, used for the 59 seconds of that historic flight, changed the course of history.
Another early aviator, Alberto Santos Dumont, made the first public flight near Paris on November 12, 1906, flying a distance of 220 meters for 21 seconds. Two years earlier, in 1904, his friend Louis Cartier had created a wristwatch for him. This collaboration between Santos-Dumont and Cartier is of great importance for the watch industry. For the first time, a celebrity gave his name -“Santos”- to a line of wristwatches commercialized from 1911 to the present day. Wristwatches were in a sense the perfect illustration of the Modern Movement, which favored rationality and functionalism. These principles, generally applied to art, also influenced serially produced items such as wristwatches.

Over the years, wristwatches have gradually
become a status symbol as well as a utilitarian object. Another famous adventurer
was one of the first to wear a wristwatch; this was T.E. Shaw, better known
as Lawrence of Arabia. The fact that Lawrence of Arabia wore a silver Omega
single-button chronograph wristwatch shows that the wristwatch had become
a useful tool that could be trusted to perform under what were often difficult
conditions.
The period between the First and Second World
Wars is considered the most creative and innovative in wristwatch history.
By then wristwatches were truly everyday objects, having dethroned the pocket
watch, which was seen as old-fashioned. However, watch manufacturers continued
to produce highly complicated pocket watches, which over the years have conserved
the names of their famous owners. An example is the “Henry Graves”
watch, made in 1933 by Patek Philippe. At the time it was the most complicated
watch ever produced, with 24 complications. In 1935, Vacheron Constantin sold
a watch with 15 complications to King Farouk.
A record-breaking sports event also
went down in wristwatch history, when Rolex’s water-resistant wristwatch
with screwed-down crown, the so-called “Oyster”, was worn in 1927
by Mercedes Gleitze as she swam across the English Channel. Her “Oyster”
was still in perfect condition after 14 hours and 15 minutes of immersion.
The next morning, the Daily Mail related this record-breaking performance
on its front page. Earlier that same year, on May 27, 1927, Charles A. Lindbergh
made the first non-stop transatlantic flight. Longines capitalized on the
event, signing a contract with the aviator to build the first hour-angle aviator’s
wristwatch, launched on the market in 1932. It became a great commercial success
under the name of the “Lindbergh” wristwatch.
In the field of competitive sports, Jean-Claude
Killy became a major phenomenon in the 1960s and 70s. The three consecutive
gold medals he won for his skiing performances at the 1968 Winter Olympic
Games in Grenoble, earned him a place in the sports Hall of Fame. Killy also
has a passion for wristwatches. In the preface the last edition of Osvaldo
Patrizzi’s “Collecting Rolex Wristwatches”, Killy is quoted
as saying: "Of the twenty-five Rolexes in my collection… there
is one I particularly care for: a gold manual wind chronograph 6036's."
Collectors the world over refer to Rolex reference 6036 as the "Jean
Claude Killy", blending the legend of the sportsman with that of the
wristwatch.
On 1953, May 29, Sir Edmund Hillary, wearing
a Rolex “Oyster” wristwatch, was the first man to conquer Mount
Everest. Seven years later, Rolex wristwatches returned to the water, this
time with a specially produced Rolex “Oyster”, fixed to the outside
of a bathysphere. The “Trieste” descended to 10,916 meters in
the Pacific, off Guam. Though it had been subjected to a pressure of one metric
ton per square centimeter, the watch was declared by explorer Jacques Piccard
to be in perfect condition upon resurfacing. More than any other brand, Rolex
grasped the impact celebrities could have on their marketing. Mercedes Gleitze,
Sir Edmund Hillary and Jacques Piccard all contributed, with their exploits,
to the Rolex legend.
Just as great, perhaps even greater, than the
contribution of adventurers and sports stars, has been the impact of celebrities
in the cinematic industry. Wristwatches have always been one of the favorite
accessories of Her Majesty’s secret agent 007, the infamous James Bond.
Long before he appeared on the silver screen, novelist Ian Fleming had already
issued James Bond with a wristwatch
In "On Her Majesty's Secret Service",
Bond uses his Rolex as a knuckle-duster and breaks it. Contemplating a replacement
watch, Bond thinks, "A Rolex? Probably. They are on the heavy side, but
they work. And at least you can see the time in the dark with those big phosphorous
numerals." In the 1962 film “Dr No.”, actor Sean Connery
played the beach scene with the statuesque Ursula Andress with a Rolex Submariner
on his wrist. For collectors, that Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 or 5508, has
come to be known as the “James Bond Submariner”
It all started in 1962 with “Dr. No”.
Then the Rolex Submariner was featured in the 1963 “From Russia with
Love”. In “Goldfinger” in 1964, a Rolex Submariner is beautifully
spotlighted by Sean Connery’s cigarette lighter, while Honor Blackman
wears a Rolex GMT while flying Goldfinger’s jet. In “On Her Majesty’s
Secret Service” which came out in 1969, actor George Lazenby takes off
his Submariner and places it on top of a photocopy machine while he peruses
a Playboy magazine. James Bond also wears a Rolex chronograph with a silvered
dial and a stainless steel Oyster bracelet. Finally in “Live and Let
Die” in 1973, another Rolex Submariner, Ref. 5513, is featured on Roger
Moore’s wrist as the words “That's a particularly handsome watch
you're wearing, Mr. Bond!" are spoken.
Whereas the Rolex Submariner will be remembered
as the James Bond Watch of the 60s, many of the episodes from the 70s and
early 80s testified to the fierce competition from electronic wristwatches
imported from Japan. The Swiss Watch Industry was no longer omnipresent. In
1977, “The Spy Who Loved Me” featured a Seiko Quartz LC Chronograph
which could print out messages. In “Moonraker” in 1979, Roger
Moore wore a Seiko LCD digital, which contained a small amount of explosive,
detonator, and cables, which he could access by removing the back plate of
the watch. In 1981, in “For Your Eyes Only”, a Seiko quartz analog
digital alarm chronograph wristwatch doubled as a radio/receiver, followed
by a Seiko Sports 100 LCD & Seiko TV watch with LCD screen in the 1983
“Octopussy”.



Left: Actor Steve McQueen, another of
the celebrities to have a wristwatch named
after him.